Modo Mio Burswood, Perth and Fremantle

User Reviews of Modo Mio, Burswood

Displaying: 1 - 1 of 1 reviews

8 Recommended

Food 8 Ambience 8 Service 9 Value 7

Menu:

Vitello Tonnato, Insalata di sedano e tartufo nero
Roasted veal in tuna and caper sauce, celery salad, quail eggs, black truffle.

Pizza al Prosciutto

Tiramisu

Modo mio opened in June and has been the talk of town as it sits shoulder to shoulder with the like of A’lure, Rockpool and Nobu. Certainly not an easy neighbourhood, it must be hard to keep up with the Jones.

It’s lunch time at the Burwood Entertainment Complex and there is plenty of choice when it comes to gourmet eating. I choose Modo Mio by Giampaolo Maffini, Head Chef. I didn’t manage to grab a bite there at the opening in June and this time I didn’t want to miss it, so I soldiered in expecting it to be fully booked. Lucky enough there was a spot there for this lonely traveller.

There is some sort of pressure when you review a supposedly good restaurant, it is directly proportional to its reputation but, as I stepped in, I knew it all would be fine. I felt an intangible preciousness to the place, an abstract quality that floats around; it’s like walking on a cloud. Not sure whether it is the lighting, the colour scheme or the soft drapes but the place has definitely atmosphere. Although, the style is non-committal, it somehow seems to be perfect for a work lunch, a girls’ night out or a marriage proposal. Let’s hope not all at once. In any case if you end up in the capable hands of Enrico, the Maitre d’, you are down for a treat, at least as far as service goes. The front staff is kind, polite, attentive, competent and, last but not least, seem to enjoy their job, almost a rarity these days.

The cotton napkin is expertly folded and laid over my lap as my search for the perfect Italian meal begins. The menu is simple, non pretentious and most importantly has correct Italian spelling, believe it or not quite an uncommon thing among Italian restaurants. The menu seems to have dishes covering several regional cuisines some with a modern twist and also a good Pizza selection. Serena, my allocated Italian waitress, as if on cue, reminds me that it’s just the lunch menu. I would have been happy if it were the dinner’s as far as I was concerned; it actually made me feel like at home.

For the first choice I let my guard down and follow Enrico’s recommendation – Vitello Tonnato. I squint over the menu as I can’t find it. He quickly shares that the dish is from the dinner menu but, if the kitchen agreed, I could have it as an entrée. Lucky for me the kitchen obliged. The Veal arrived beautifully presented. The perfectly cooked veal slices sat high circling the crispy and slightly salted celery julienne. The tuna and caper sauce waited there invitingly surrounded by soft boiled quail eggs and fine ‘petals’ of black truffle.

The veal simply melts in your mouth and the ingredients in the tuna sauce are perfectly balanced. The celery is also a fine addition to the dish offering a sophisticated textural component too often overlooked. The truffle however is the cherry that makes the difference, the dish’s secret weapon. Its tiny slices simply turbo charge every bite, the only down side is there is not enough for such a glutton like yours truly. The entrée happens to be perfect, ticking all the boxes – adequate size, tasty but not overwhelming and overall a great platform to the main.

Good suggestion Enrico!

The main course consists of a Pizza al Prosciutto e Rucola (cured ham and rocket).
It comes with an irregular shape, definitely not a perfect ‘o’ which is a good sign, I let you foodies figure the ‘why’.

The prosciutto is good, without the usual unpleasant saltiness I have found elsewhere. It has the right balance if not a bit on the sweet side and it gets finely shaved right in front of me with a gorgeous ‘old style’ meat slicer, expensive piece of equipment.

The dough has turned out thin and crispy, I guess the way they like it here…I could name more than one person who could retire from pizza after eating this one, unfortunately not me, not on this one. The problem is I grew up in Naples not far from where the first pizza was invented so I am always cautious at judging. This pizza, whilst not possessing the softness and moist as well as the crunchy and thick charred borders of Neapolitan Pizza it definitely stands out and it could, with some luck, do the same in some other Italian cities.

The ingredients exude quality although something could have been done with the mozzarella, a bit too dry for me, but I guess you ought to be within your cost percentage range.
Overall the pizza tastes and looks good and I would probably eat it here again unless the competition tops it up, which it is definitely not an impossible task. If you have grown up, however, eating Neapolitan pizza you may share a different enthusiasm towards their selection and maybe go for the fish.

I am quite full at this stage and almost forgot my dessert, Tiramisu’.
When it comes to desserts I am open-minded even when they originate from my own turf though I have great expectations for this one as few friends have raved about it.
The look is elegant and refined. The cocoa powder is of fine quality and the cream beneath is ridiculously smooth and homogeneous. I love it. The sponge fingers are very moist if not a tad too wet for my likings but, to be fair, I am glad they are not dry.

Unfortunately – yes, there is one – the maker of this gorgeous dessert has exceeded with the liqueur. I believe it to be Amaretto which is not on my favourites list either. The almond bitterness can be pleasant but in this case it is too exuberant if not overwhelming. It is a shame; I was thinking perfection till I hit the sponge fingers and their amaretto flavoured coffee. If however, you are into Amaretto then you’ve just died and ended up in dessert heaven. I am more of a Marsala guy or Strega with Tiramisu.

Overall the place looks and feels awesome, the service is impeccable and the food fit for a king. The price is not cheap but there are always deals and set menu offers to give you that gourmet experience you have been waiting for.

Head chef Giampaolo Maffini has really done “my way” (a modo mio) I just wish few other chefs would take on his personal view on Italian Cuisine.